Warm orange light pours through the entrance as the sounds of casual conversations and background music fill the room. Decorative wood pillars line the space, and a wall of textured golden panels sections the doorway from sleek furniture. With floor-to-ceiling windows blanketing the diner in natural light, Horsefeather is the newest addition to Town & Country Village’s diverse and esteemed lineup of restaurants.
Horsefeather opened its first location in San Francisco in 2016 and recently launched its Palo Alto branch on June 27. The team has lofty goals for the upcoming years, including outdoor seating, an expanded menu and a new lunch program for Paly students.
“We’re working on a kind of grab-and-go situation for Palo Alto High School [students],” General Manager Dzu Nguyen said. “Foods that you see on the menu are going to be rapid fire for you guys.”
Nguyen said the inspiration for the restaurant’s cuisine originated from a fusion of cultures.
“We like to term it as ‘Pan Californian,’ with a focus on Latin and Asian influence,” Nguyen said. “Our chef Johanna is Yucatanian and Mexican. By birth, I’m Vietnamese. Our owners are Chinese. [We look for] the middle ground in between those flavor profiles.”
The story behind the restaurant’s name refers to the term “horsefeathers,” which means nonsense or something ridiculous, contrasting its put together exterior.
“Essentially, [the name is] a joke; it kind of falls into the ethos of our restaurant,” Nguyen said. “We present ourselves in the best way possible, with great service and high quality, but at the same time, we’re still always going to have that sort of neighborhood-style energy, that kind of devil-may-care attitude.”
We decided to test if Horsefeather’s food lived up to its reputation on a late Friday afternoon. At 4:30 p.m., the restaurant was not busy, missing the usual bustle of servers and customers moving about.
We walked past rows of wooden chairs, stone-topped tables and a sophisticated, stylish bar, furnished with dark-oak shelves containing numerous alcoholic beverages.
The menu featured six appetizers ranging from $11 to $28, along with 10 main dishes ranging from $18 to $36. Our food arrived just 10 minutes after ordering.
Duck Fat Fries ($11)
The large bowl of Duck Fat Fries was an excellent start to the dinner. Each fry was topped with a red umami seasoning and grated duck fat, which had a snow-like texture that melted at the touch. The fries were small with a light crunch, while the sweet curried ketchup matched their saltiness well. The fries are arguably the best deal at Horsefeather, enough to satisfy a party of six all for a low price.
Korean Crispy Wings ($20)
As one of the most popular items on the menu, the wings were large and meaty. At first glance, the shiny, sweet and sour glaze paired with the uneven texture of the skin made each bite one to look forward to. The layer of crust was thinner than expected, cracking into tiny bits and revealing the tender, juicy chicken inside. The honey and sesame oil sauce was messy but succulent, encouraging us to lick our fingers to ensure none of it went to waste. The Korean Crispy Wings were the best of the bunch and were well worth it.
Cochinita Pibil Tacos ($20)
This dish held three tacos with two small bowls of coleslaw and red salsa. Each taco had plenty of pulled pork, pickled onions and cilantro inside. We recommend you eat the tacos quickly, as the tortilla was slightly soggy by the time we got to them. The fatty pork made for some satisfying bites paired with the acidic onions as they simultaneously clashed with the plainness of the tortilla. The coleslaw had an enjoyable sour taste, while the salsa was very spicy, complementing the tacos.
Yuzu Custard ($12)
After the meal, our server laid out six spoons in a neat row, reflecting Horsefeather’s attention to detail. Our dessert arrived in a parfait glass, topped with a decorative mint leaf, a viola flower and a handful of fresh berries. The Yuzu Custard delighted the taste buds with gentle sweetness and a citrusy tang. Soft whipped cream was layered on top of the airy, fluffy custard, which was light and refreshing. The garnish and berries added complexity to an otherwise simple dish, successfully cleansing our palates after a spice-packed dinner.
From start to finish, Horsefeather demonstrated its expertise in creating flavorful and mouthwatering dishes, but also performing above and beyond with its pleasant atmosphere, comfortable seating and top-notch service. With a broad selection of cocktails and main courses that go for above $20, you are more likely to find young adults and customers who can afford the restaurant’s higher prices. Offering diverse, appetizing options for both brunch and dinner, Horsefeather is a spot that all Palo Alto residents should visit.
Horsefeather, 855 El Camino Real St, Suite 151, Palo Alto, CA 94301; 650-648-4845, Instagram: @horsefeather.pa. Open Tuesday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
